Located south of Ambergris Caye, about twenty miles from Belize City, Caye Caulker has been described as a slightly enlarged version of Gilligan's Island. Like Ambergris, Caulker is partly swamp, and has only a limited settled area. But the island and town are much smaller it measures a half mile by about five miles, with fewer than 750 inhabitants.

Facilities for visitors are fewer in number, but recent expansion and development threatens to destroy it's peacefulness. In recent years the local police have put somewhat of a damper on formerly accepted activities such as openly smoking marijuana, and topless bathing.

Once a pirate lair, Caye Caulker is now a relatively prosperous community of fishermen. Lobsters and conch are the main catch. Some of the residents are also skilled at boat-building. The island is called Mayo Hicaco in Spanish—hicaco is a species of palm, the coco plum—whence comes the English name, which is also spelled Corker.

For years, Caye Caulker was the place in Belize for hanging out and watching the sea. Backpackers fi om all over came to examine the scene, and ended up staying for indefinite periods at Belize's low-key, uncrowded, and unluxurious People's Resort.

Times have changed, and with the inauguration of a landing strip and an air shuttle to Belize City, accommodations are in a state of flux. Prices have begun to rise, several hotels have changed hands, and new restaurants, excursion providers, and souvenir shops have begun to pop up. Alas, Caye Caulker.

Caye Caulker village is a square of sandy lanes under the palms, facing the gentle sea to both east and west. On the reef side are docks and docks and docks. This is genuinely a fishing village, and you are a bystander. The beach is no more than 11 inches of sand, meandering down the shoreline. There is said to be a pickup truck somewhere, and several golf carts sneak up and down the lanes, but sleeping dogs occupy the right of way at all hours. Outlying clusters of houses are rea(hed by trails through the palms.

Almost all of the buildings on Caye Caulker, for guests and residents, are raised on posts, or more spindly stilts. This keeps you above the level of the sand flies (another reason development is limited) and more squarely in the breeze. When the wind is strollg, your room has a noticeable sway something like that caused by a mild earthquake.

To the north, the village comes to a halt at the Cut, where Hurricane Hattie blew through the island in l96l .It's a popular swimming spot. The water is shallow and fast moving. Many of the structures on the island look like they would not survive another good storm.

The Marine Terminal in Belize City.